New York–Style Bagels

Combine the water, malt syrup, and instant yeast in a large bowl and stir briefly to dissolve. Add the flour and salt. Mix by hand or with a dough hook until the ingredients come together into a stiff, rough ball — about 3 minutes. This dough is intentionally very stiff: 55% hydration is on the low end for bread, and that stiffness is what gives the bagel its characteristic chewiness. The dough will feel almost too dry and will not fully smooth out during mixing. Turn out onto an unfloured surface.

Knead the dough on an unfloured surface for 8–10 minutes by hand (or 6 minutes in a stand mixer with a dough hook on medium speed). The stiff dough won't be as extensible as focaccia or sourdough, but it should become smooth and develop enough elasticity to pass the windowpane test: stretch a small piece between your fingers into a thin membrane without it tearing. Divide into 8 equal portions (about 110–120g each). Roll each into a smooth ball, cover with a damp towel, and let rest 15 minutes to relax the gluten before shaping.

To shape each bagel: roll each ball into a rope about 9 inches long, slightly thicker in the middle. Wrap the rope around your palm and four fingers, overlapping the ends by 1–2 inches on your palm. Roll your palm back and forth on the counter while pressing down — the ends will fuse together under the pressure. The resulting ring should have a hole about 1.5–2 inches in diameter (it will close significantly during boiling and baking). Alternatively, poke a floured thumb through the center of each ball and gently stretch the hole. Place shaped bagels on a parchment-lined sheet pan.

Cover the pan of shaped bagels with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 10–14 hours (overnight). The cold proof develops flavor while keeping the dough very firm, which helps the bagels hold their shape during boiling. To test if they are ready: drop one bagel into a bowl of cold water. If it floats within 10 seconds, it's ready to boil. If it sinks and stays down, it needs more time at room temperature (30–60 minutes out of the refrigerator).

Bring a wide pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the barley malt syrup and baking soda and stir to dissolve — the water will foam slightly. Working in batches of 2–4 (do not crowd), lower the bagels into the water. Boil 1 minute per side (2 minutes total) for a chewier crust, or 30 seconds per side for a slightly softer result. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Immediately apply toppings (sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning) while the surface is wet.

Bake the boiled bagels at 500°F (260°C) for 18–22 minutes, rotating the pan once halfway through, until they are a deep mahogany-brown all over — including the bottom. They will darken more than you expect and more than you might be comfortable with. Do not pull them early; the color is the flavor. Cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes before cutting — the interior is still finishing and will be slightly gummy if cut hot.