Black Forest Gâteau

Combine eggs and caster sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whip on high speed for 8-12 minutes until the mixture has tripled in volume, turned pale ivory, and reaches the ribbon stage: when you lift the whisk, the batter falls in a thick, slow ribbon that holds on the surface for 3-4 seconds before dissolving. This foam is the sole leavener for the sponge — do not rush it. The bowl should be at room temperature or slightly warm (set it briefly over a pan of simmering water to help the eggs foam if your kitchen is cold).

Sift flour, cocoa powder, and baking powder together. Add one-third of the dry mix to the egg foam and fold with a large spatula using wide, slow J-strokes from the bottom of the bowl, rotating the bowl a quarter turn with each stroke. When nearly incorporated (a few streaks remain), add another third. When almost incorporated, add the final third. Drizzle the cooled melted butter around the edge of the bowl in the final fold — butter kills foam, so add it last and fold in briskly with 6-8 confident strokes.

Divide the batter evenly between two greased and base-lined 20 cm (8 inch) round cake tins. Smooth the surfaces gently. Bake at 180 C (350 F) for 22-26 minutes. Do not open the oven door before 20 minutes. When done, cool in the tins for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack. Cool completely — at least 1 hour — before slicing. Once cold, use a long serrated knife to split each sponge in half horizontally, giving you 4 layers total. Drizzle each cut surface with Kirsch.

Chill your bowl and whisk attachment in the freezer for 10 minutes. Pour cold double cream and icing sugar into the cold bowl. Whip on medium-high until the cream holds firm, glossy peaks that stand up straight when the whisk is lifted. Stop before it turns grainy. You need enough cream to fill and coat the whole cake — divide mentally: one-third for filling between layers, two-thirds for the outside.

Place the first sponge layer cut-side-up on a cake board. Brush generously with Kirsch. Spread a layer of cream (about 5 mm thick), then scatter Morello cherries densely across the cream surface. Place the second sponge layer cut-side-down, press gently, brush with Kirsch. Repeat cream and cherries. Place the third layer, brush with Kirsch, spread cream. Top with the final sponge layer, flat-side-up. Use the remaining cream to cover the top and sides in a smooth crumb coat, then a final generous layer. To make chocolate shavings: use a vegetable peeler or warm bench scraper dragged along the flat side of a cold block of dark chocolate. Scatter shavings thickly on top. Pipe rosettes of cream around the edge and crown each with a whole cherry.