Cannoli Cream

Line a fine-mesh sieve or colander with a double layer of damp cheesecloth and set it over a bowl in the refrigerator. Tip the ricotta into the lined sieve and leave to drain for at least 1 hour (or up to overnight for the driest result). Discard the liquid in the bowl. Properly strained ricotta should feel grainy and dry — like thick cottage cheese rather than yogurt. The water content of commercial ricotta is the single biggest reason cannoli cream turns out runny: drain it without mercy.

Transfer the strained ricotta to a bowl. Sift the powdered sugar over it and beat together with a spatula or hand mixer on low speed until completely smooth, with no sugar lumps and no ricotta curds remaining. This step breaks down the grainy texture of the ricotta into a creamy, cohesive mass. Taste for sweetness — the sugar level here is modest to allow the ricotta's flavour to come through. Add more sugar by the tablespoon if desired, but remember that the chocolate chips will add additional sweetness.

Add the orange zest, vanilla extract, and cinnamon to the sweetened ricotta and fold in with a spatula until fully distributed — the zest should be dispersed throughout, not clumped. Fold in the mini chocolate chips last, using three or four strokes to distribute evenly without crushing them. The chips should remain whole and provide textural contrast. Taste once more: the orange should be present but not dominant, the cinnamon a background whisper.

Cover the bowl tightly with cling film pressed directly onto the surface of the cream to prevent a skin forming. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes before use. Fill cannoli shells at the very last moment by piping from both ends to ensure even filling — shells pre-filled more than 30 minutes ahead will soften and lose their crunch. For each filled cannoli, finish the exposed cream at both ends with a small pinch of chopped pistachios. Alternatively, serve the cream in small bowls or cups with crushed wafer for dipping.