Spanish Churros

Bring water to a rolling boil in a saucepan. Add the salt and oil and let them dissolve in the water, then pull the pan off the heat and tip in all the flour at once. Stir immediately and vigorously with a wooden spoon — the boiling water cooks the starch in the flour (this is a pâte à choux relative), creating a smooth, stiff dough that pulls away from the sides of the pan cleanly. Continue stirring for 1 to 2 minutes until no raw flour remains and the dough forms a single cohesive mass.

Transfer the dough to a large piping bag fitted with a large star nozzle — a 6-point or 8-point star with at least a 1.5 cm opening. Twist the top shut and rest for 5 minutes. The brief rest allows the dough to cool just enough that it will not soften the bag, and gives the gluten a moment to relax so the dough extrudes evenly. Meanwhile, mix the cinnamon and sugar in a shallow tray and set it next to the stove. Heat the frying oil in a deep, wide pot to 180°C (356°F).

Holding the piping bag over the hot oil, pipe 10–15 cm lengths directly into the oil, using scissors or a knife to snip the dough cleanly at the nozzle. Fry in small batches — no more than 4 to 5 at a time — for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once, until deep golden-brown on all sides. The ridges from the star nozzle are the churro's crust — they crisp before the dough's interior sets. Lift with a spider or tongs and drain on a rack or paper towel for no more than 30 seconds before coating.

Drop the hot drained churros immediately into the cinnamon-sugar mixture and toss to coat, or roll them quickly in the tray. The residual oil on the surface is the glue — the coating will not adhere well once they cool. Serve within 10 minutes of frying. Churros do not keep well: they begin losing their snap within 20 minutes as steam migrates from the interior to the crust.