Thai Coconut Ice Cream

Combine the coconut cream, grated palm sugar, fine salt, and the tied pandan leaf in a medium saucepan. Warm over medium-low heat, stirring regularly, until the palm sugar is completely dissolved — about 5 minutes. The palm sugar will dissolve slowly and the liquid will shift from pure white to a warm ivory-amber as the sugar's caramel compounds integrate. Do not rush this over high heat — the coconut cream scorches easily on the bottom of the pan and can develop a cooked, tinny taste. Once the sugar is fully dissolved, taste the base: it should be distinctly sweet, lightly salty, and carry the palm sugar's characteristic mild molasses note underneath the coconut richness. Remove the pandan leaf and remove from heat.

Whisk the egg yolks and condensed milk together in a medium bowl until the mixture is pale yellow and smooth. Now temper the hot coconut base into the yolks: pour a thin, slow stream of the warm coconut base into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly and vigorously. Add the first few tablespoons in a very thin stream — the yolks must gradually equalize in temperature with the hot liquid before you add the bulk. Once you have added about one-third of the hot coconut base, the yolk mixture will be warm and safe to combine quickly — pour in the remainder in a steady stream while continuing to whisk. This technique prevents the yolks from scrambling. Return the combined mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula in figure-eight strokes, until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back of the spatula — about 3 to 4 minutes.

Allow the custard base to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour until completely cold — ideally overnight. This pre-chilling dramatically reduces the freezing time and improves the final texture. Pour the cold custard into a shallow, freezer-safe container (a metal loaf pan works well). Freeze for 2 hours until the edges are solidly frozen but the center is still soft and slushy. Remove from freezer and beat vigorously with a fork or hand mixer, breaking up the ice crystals and incorporating air throughout. Return to freezer for another 2 hours. Repeat this beat-and-freeze cycle one more time for the smoothest result. For the final freeze, leave undisturbed for at least 2 hours until fully set. The no-churn method is slower than a machine but the beating cycles break down large ice crystals into fine ones — the difference between grainy and creamy.

Scoop the ice cream into small bowls, wafer cones, or — authentically — into a small portion served over steamed sticky rice. Scatter the toasted coconut flakes over the top of the scoop and add the crushed peanuts if using. The contrast of cold, creamy ice cream against warm or room-temperature sticky rice is a classic Thai street combination. Serve immediately — the ice cream will melt quickly in warm environments. The toasted coconut adds crunch and amplifies the coconut flavor, while the peanuts provide a salty, roasted counterpoint to the sweetness. At street stalls, this ice cream is sometimes served with sweet corn, kidney beans, or taro — do not be surprised by these additions, which are traditional.