Congee

Rinse the rice in cold water two or three times, swirling with your hand, until the water runs from milky to nearly clear — but stop before it is perfectly clear, as some surface starch helps the porridge thicken. Drain well, then rub the rice with the neutral oil and half the salt. Let it sit for 15-30 minutes. The oil coats each grain so it breaks down evenly and gives the finished congee a glossy sheen.

Bring the water (or stock) and ginger coins to a rolling boil in a tall, heavy pot. Add the primed rice and stir once from the bottom to lift any grains stuck to the base. Let it return to a vigorous boil for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. This initial hard boil cracks the grains open and starts releasing their starch into the water.

Reduce to a low, steady simmer and set the lid slightly ajar. Cook for 60-75 minutes, stirring every 10-15 minutes to keep the rice from settling and catching on the bottom. The grains will swell, split, and finally dissolve, thickening the liquid into a smooth, pourable porridge. Stir more often toward the end as it thickens. If it grows too thick, loosen with a splash of hot water.

Taste and adjust with a few drops of soy sauce and a pinch of white pepper — congee should be gently seasoned, a quiet base rather than a bold dish. Ladle the hot porridge into warm bowls. Scatter sliced scallions and fried shallots over the top, and finish each bowl with another tiny crack of white pepper. Serve immediately while it steams.