Duck à l'Orange

Pat the duck bone-dry inside and out. Prick the skin all over the breast and thighs with a fork held at a shallow angle, piercing the fat layer but not the meat beneath, so the rendering fat has an exit. Season the cavity and skin generously with salt and white pepper and, ideally, leave uncovered in the fridge an hour or more to dry the skin. Tie the legs to draw the bird tight.

Roast breast-up on a rack at 200°C / 400°F. After 25 minutes drop to 170°C / 340°F and continue, tipping out the rendered fat from the tray every 30 minutes (reserve it — it is gold). Roast about 75-90 minutes total, until the skin is deep amber and crisp and the thigh juices run clear. Rest the bird, loosely tented, at least 15 minutes before carving.

In a clean heavy saucepan, melt the sugar over medium heat without stirring, swirling the pan as it liquefies, until it turns a deep amber caramel right at the edge of bitter — this dark caramel is what keeps the sauce from being merely sweet. Off the heat, stand back and pour in the vinegar; it will sputter and seize. Return to low heat and stir until the hardened caramel melts smooth into a syrupy gastrique.

Blanch the orange zest strips in boiling water for a minute to soften their harsh bitterness, then drain. Add the minced shallot to the gastrique and soften briefly, deglaze with the white wine and reduce by half, then pour in the warm brown stock and the orange juice. Simmer and reduce until the sauce lightly naps a spoon, 8-12 minutes, skimming as needed. Stir in the blanched zest.

Off direct high heat, stir the orange liqueur into the sauce and simmer a few seconds to soften its alcohol. Whisk in the cold butter a knob at a time, off the heat, swirling until the sauce turns glossy and silken — do not let it boil or it will split. Taste and correct the salt and the sweet-sour balance. Carve the rested duck, fan the slices, and spoon the warm sauce over and around. Serve at once.