Gougères

Combine the water, butter, salt, and pepper in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir as the butter melts, then bring to a full rolling boil. Remove from heat and tip in all the flour in one addition. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth ball that pulls away cleanly from the sides of the pan. Return to medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 1–2 minutes until the paste dries slightly and a thin film forms on the pan bottom. This drying step is essential.

Beat the eggs lightly together. With the panade still warm, add the beaten egg in four additions, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon or electric mixer between each — the paste will look horrifyingly split and greasy at first; keep beating until it comes back together before adding more. After all eggs are incorporated and the paste is smooth and glossy, stir in three-quarters of the Gruyère and the nutmeg. The dough should fall from the spoon in a slow, heavy V.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F). Line two baking sheets with parchment. Pipe or spoon walnut-sized rounds, about 3 cm in diameter, spacing them 4 cm apart. Wet a finger and smooth any peaks. Sprinkle the reserved Gruyère over the tops. Bake for 22–25 minutes until deep golden-brown and puffed. Do not open the oven in the first 15 minutes — the choux needs uninterrupted heat to set its structure. Gougères are done when they are deeply colored and feel light for their size.