Scandinavian Gravlax

Combine the coarse salt, sugar, and cracked white pepper in a small bowl. Stir together until evenly mixed. The ratio of salt to sugar should be 1:1 by weight — this is not negotiable. More salt produces a firmer, saltier cure; more sugar keeps the flesh softer but can make it cloying. Taste a pinch: it should be distinctly salty with a backing sweetness.

Lay a double sheet of cling film on a large tray. Scatter half the curing mixture in the centre in the shape of the fillet. Lay the salmon skin-side down on the cure. Drizzle the aquavit or vodka over the flesh if using. Press the remaining cure firmly onto every centimetre of the flesh side — the belly flaps and the thin tail end will cure faster than the thick centre, so use less cure there. Pile the dill in a thick, fragrant mass covering the entire flesh surface. Wrap the whole package tightly in the cling film, then again in a second layer.

Place the wrapped salmon on a rimmed tray in the refrigerator. Set a heavy weight directly on top — a cast iron pan, heavy books, or a brick. The weight presses the curing liquid back into the flesh rather than letting it pool below. After 24 hours, flip the entire package over. After 48 hours total, the gravlax is ready. The cure can safely stretch to 60 hours for a firmer, saltier result, or be stopped at 36 hours for a more delicate texture.

Scrape off all the dill and cure with the back of a knife and discard. Pat the flesh completely dry with paper towels. Place skin-side down. Using a long, thin, sharp knife (a carving knife or salmon slicer), angle the blade at 45 degrees and slice as thinly as possible — 2–3 mm at most — in long strokes, separating each slice from the skin. Work from the tail to the head. The slices should be almost translucent. Arrange overlapping on a cold plate and serve within 30 minutes of slicing.