Hushpuppies

Whisk together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar in a large bowl until the leaveners are evenly distributed. This is important — baking powder and baking soda need to be spread evenly through the dry mix before the wet ingredients are added, or you will have uneven rising and pockets of chemical taste.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, egg, and grated onion (use the large holes of a box grater — grated onion releases more juice than diced and integrates more evenly). Pour the wet ingredients into the well in the dry mix and stir with a fork just until combined — 15–20 strokes maximum. Lumps are expected and correct. Overmixed hushpuppy batter develops too much gluten and produces tough, dense fritters instead of tender-crumbed ones. Rest the batter for 5 minutes before frying.

Pour at least 5–6 cm of oil into a heavy pot (cast iron Dutch oven ideal). Heat over medium-high to 185 C (365 F). Use a thermometer — temperature is the single most important variable in frying. Too cool and the hushpuppies absorb oil and are greasy and pale. Too hot and the outside burns before the inside cooks through.

Use two wet spoons or a small ice cream scoop to drop walnut-sized portions of batter into the oil, working in batches of 6–8 (overcrowding drops the oil temperature). The hushpuppies will sink briefly, begin to form a crust, and then roll themselves over as the leaveners create an uneven steam pocket — this self-rolling is the sign of a well-made batter. Fry 3–4 minutes total, turning once if they do not roll on their own, until deep golden-brown all over. Drain on a wire rack, not paper towels.