Japanese Salmon Teriyaki

Combine the soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and stir to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for 3–4 minutes until reduced by one-third and the glaze coats the back of a spoon with a thin sheen. Remove from heat. The glaze thickens further as it cools.

Pat the salmon fillets completely dry with kitchen paper — any moisture creates steam and prevents a crust. Score the skin 3 times diagonally to prevent curling. Heat the oil in a non-stick or cast-iron pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Place the salmon skin-side down and press firmly with a spatula for 10 seconds to prevent curling. Cook skin-side down for 4 minutes until the skin is deeply golden and crisp and the flesh has turned opaque 2/3 of the way up the sides. Flip once.

After flipping, cook the flesh side for 1 minute. Reduce heat to low. Pour the teriyaki glaze over and around the salmon. As it bubbles, spoon it over the top of the fillets repeatedly for 1–2 minutes. The glaze will reduce and lacquer the salmon in a shiny, mahogany coating. Remove from heat and spoon any remaining glaze over the top. Scatter green onion and sesame seeds. Rest 1 minute before serving.