Kedgeree

Place smoked haddock in a wide, shallow pan, skin side down. Pour milk over to nearly cover. Add a bay leaf and a few peppercorns. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat — do not boil. Poach for 8-10 minutes until the fish turns opaque and flakes easily. Remove fish to a plate. Reserve the poaching milk — it carries smokiness and salt that will season the rice. When fish is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and flake into large, irregular pieces.

Melt butter in a wide, heavy pot over medium heat. Add onion and cook for 10 minutes until soft and golden. Add crushed cardamom pods, bay leaf, and curry powder. Stir for 1-2 minutes until the spices are fragrant and have bloomed in the butter. The onion should be soft and perfumed with curry, cardamom, and the faint sweetness of cooked allium. Remove bay leaf and any large cardamom pieces before adding rice.

Add the rinsed rice to the pot and stir to coat in the spiced butter. Pour in 300ml of the reserved poaching milk (topped up with water if needed). Bring to a boil, reduce heat to very low, and cover tightly. Cook for 12 minutes without lifting the lid. Remove from heat and let steam, covered, for 8 minutes. The rice should be fully cooked, fragrant with spice, and slightly yellow from the curry.

Gently fold the haddock flakes into the rice using a wide spatula, working in broad, careful motions to keep the fish in large pieces. Add the soft-boiled eggs (halved or quartered) and scatter chopped parsley over the top. Season with black pepper — the smoked fish will have contributed significant salt, so taste before adding any. Serve directly from the pot with butter on the side.