Napa Kimchi

Halve or quarter the napa lengthwise, keeping the core intact so the leaves stay attached. Dissolve a third of the salt in the water to make a quick brine and dunk the cabbage; then lift each section and pack the remaining salt down between the leaves, concentrating it on the thick white ribs. Lay the cabbage cut-side up in a large bowl and let it sit at room temperature for 2 hours, flipping every 30 minutes, until the leaves are limp and pliable. Rinse thoroughly three times in cold water to remove excess salt, then drain cut-side down in a colander for 30 minutes.

Whisk the sweet rice flour into a cup of cold water until smooth, then cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens into a translucent, glossy paste — 3 to 5 minutes. It should fall from the spoon in a slow ribbon. Cool completely; warm porridge will kill the culture and cook the aromatics. This starch gives the seasoning body to cling to the leaves and feeds the lactic bacteria during fermentation.

Into the cooled porridge stir the gochugaru and let it bloom for 10 minutes — it will swell and turn a deep brick red. Add the grated garlic, ginger, saeujeot and fish sauce, and grated pear, and mix to a loose, spoonable paste. Fold in the julienned radish and scallions. Taste: it should be aggressively savory, sweet, salty, and hot, since brined cabbage will mute it. Adjust with more fish sauce for salt or pear for sweetness.

Wearing gloves, lay a cabbage section down and smear the paste leaf by leaf, working it into every layer and concentrating it on the white ribs. Fold the stuffed section into a tidy bundle, wrapping it in its own outermost leaf, and pack into a clean jar or crock, pressing firmly to expel air pockets. Leave at least 3 cm of headspace — kimchi bubbles and rises as it ferments. Swish the paste bowl with a splash of water and pour it over the top to keep everything submerged.

Cover loosely (a lid set ajar, or a fermentation weight under a cloth) and leave at cool room temperature, 18-22°C, for 1 to 3 days. Set the jar on a plate to catch overflow. Once a day, press the cabbage back under the brine with a clean spoon to release gas and keep it submerged. Taste daily: it is ready when it turns pleasantly sour and tangy and you see lively bubbles. Then transfer to the refrigerator, where it slowly matures for weeks and keeps for months.