Mantou (Chinese Steamed Buns)

Dissolve the sugar in the warm milk, then add the yeast and let it bloom for 5 minutes until foamy. Combine with the flour and salt in a bowl. Bring together into a rough dough, then turn out and knead for 10-12 minutes by hand, or 6-8 minutes in a stand mixer with a dough hook, until perfectly smooth and elastic. Add the oil in the last 2 minutes of kneading. Unlike bread dough, mantou dough should be dry enough to handle without sticking — if it sticks, dust with flour, not water.

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and proof in a warm place (28-30 C) for 60 minutes, or until doubled in size. Do not rush this proof — a slow, even rise develops a more uniform, finely bubbled crumb than a fast one.

Turn the dough out onto a clean surface. Roll it into a flat rectangle about 1 cm thick. Roll it up tightly from one short end into a log — this lamination creates the layered internal structure. Cut the log into 6-8 equal oval portions. Place each bun cut-side up on a small square of parchment paper. Cover with a damp cloth and let rest for 25-30 minutes for the second proof.

Bring the steamer water to a rolling boil before placing the buns inside. Leave 3-4 cm space between each bun as they expand. Cover with a tight lid and steam over high heat for 12-15 minutes depending on size. Critical: do not lift the lid during steaming. When the time is up, turn off the heat and leave the lid on for 5 full minutes before opening — the rest prevents the sudden temperature drop that causes the surface to shrink and wrinkle.