Miso-Glazed Black Cod

Combine sake, mirin, and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring, until the sugar dissolves and the alcohol cooks off — the raw boozy smell will mellow to a soft, sweet aroma. Do not boil vigorously. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature completely before adding the miso.

Add the white miso to the cooled sake-mirin base and whisk vigorously until the paste is completely dissolved and the mixture is uniformly smooth and creamy. There should be no lumps of miso visible. The finished marinade is sweet-salty, intensely savory, and pale ivory in color. Cool completely before use.

Pat the cod fillets completely dry with paper towels, then lightly salt both sides and let them sit 10 minutes. The salt draws out surface moisture that would dilute the marinade. Wipe the salt and any exuded moisture away. Spread the miso marinade generously over all surfaces of each fillet, working it gently into the flesh. Place in a sealed container or zip-lock bag, pressing out air, and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours — 48-72 hours is ideal and transforms the fish.

Preheat the broiler to maximum heat with the rack 10-12 cm (4-5 inches) from the element. Wipe away excess marinade from each fillet with your fingers — too thick a layer burns before the fish cooks through. Place fillets skin-side down on a foil-lined tray. Broil for 8-12 minutes, watching constantly. The glaze will bubble, caramelize, and turn a deep amber-to-mahogany in patches. The fish is done when it is opaque throughout and flakes easily with a fork at the thickest point.

Serve immediately on warmed plates. The fish needs nothing beyond itself, though a small mound of pickled ginger and a few stems of blanched broccolini complete the plate. If the fillet sticks to the foil, slide a thin spatula between skin and foil — the skin sometimes adheres. Serve skin-side down and eat the caramelized glaze first — it is the crown of the dish.