Nasu Dengaku

Halve the eggplants lengthwise. Using a sharp paring knife, score the cut face in a deep crosshatch pattern — cut about two-thirds into the flesh at 1 cm intervals in both directions without piercing the skin. This scoring is critical: it allows heat to penetrate and sesame oil to seep into the flesh, preventing steam from splitting the skin and dramatically shortening the roasting time. Press the cut face lightly to open the grid slightly.

Brush the scored cut face generously with sesame oil, working the oil into the crosshatch cuts with the brush. Flip and brush a thin layer over the skin side as well. The sesame oil serves double duty: it prevents sticking and imparts a deep, nutty fragrance that suffuses the flesh during roasting. Line a baking tray with foil and place eggplant halves cut-side down.

Roast cut-side down in a 220°C (425°F) oven for 12–15 minutes, until the flesh is completely tender when pierced with a chopstick or skewer and the cut faces have taken on a light gold color from contact with the tray. This initial roasting collapses the air pockets in the spongy eggplant flesh and drives out moisture, which concentrates the flavor and creates the right base for the glaze to adhere to. Do not rush this step — underdone eggplant will have a bitter, spongy bite.

While the eggplant roasts, combine white miso, mirin, sake, and sugar in a small saucepan over very low heat. Whisk constantly as the mixture warms — the goal is just to dissolve the sugar and bring everything into a smooth, homogeneous paste, not to cook it. The glaze should be warm, fluid, and spreadable, the consistency of thick yogurt. Remove from heat as soon as it is smooth. Taste: it should be deeply savory, sweetly balanced, and intensely fragrant.

Flip the roasted eggplant halves so the cut face is now up. Spoon the dengaku glaze generously over each half, spreading it to the edges with the back of the spoon. The layer should be thick enough to be opaque — roughly 3–4mm — so it caramelizes and chars slightly rather than burning off thin. Do not be timid: a thick, generous glaze is what makes this dish.

Broil the glazed eggplant halves under a hot broiler (or salamander) for 3–5 minutes, watching constantly. The glaze should bubble, then caramelize to deep amber-brown with slightly charred edges and spots — this Maillard browning and mild caramelization is the defining character of dengaku. Remove from the broiler and let rest for 1 minute on the tray. Transfer to serving plates, scatter toasted sesame seeds generously, and finish with sliced scallion. Serve immediately while the eggplant is still trembling-soft and the glaze is warm.