Miso Tare

Combine the mirin and sake in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer for 3-4 minutes to cook off the raw alcohol. You can carefully tip the pan to ignite the vapor if cooking over gas — the flame will be brief and blue. If flambéing makes you nervous, simply simmer until the alcohol sharpness disappears from the steam. The liquid will reduce slightly and the aroma should smell sweet and gently caramelized, not boozy and raw. This step is non-negotiable — raw alcohol gives the tare a harsh edge that doesn't belong.

Add the white miso and red miso to the slightly cooled sake-mirin mixture. Whisk vigorously until completely smooth with no lumps — miso can be stubborn and hide clumps if you rush this step. Add the garlic and ginger if using and whisk through. Return to the lowest possible heat and stir continuously for 5-6 minutes — do not let the mixture boil. The goal is a gentle, brief cooking that marries the miso with the mirin and sake, mellows the raw miso edge, and creates a unified paste. Watch carefully: miso scorches at very low temperatures and should never bubble.

Remove from the heat and stir in the toasted sesame oil and sesame seeds. The sesame oil must go in off the heat — it is intensely aromatic and its fragrance dissipates rapidly when cooked. Stir to incorporate fully. Allow to cool completely before transferring to a sealed jar. The tare will keep refrigerated for up to a month. To use: stir a heaped tablespoon into a bowl of hot ramen broth, whisk into a marinade with soy sauce and oil, or use as a glaze for roasting root vegetables and tofu.