Porchetta

The night before: lay the pork belly skin-side down. Score the flesh side in a crosshatch pattern about 5 mm deep (this is where the filling will cling). Season the flesh generously with salt — use about half the total salt. Flip the belly and score the skin with a sharp knife in parallel lines about 1 cm apart, cutting only through the skin and just into the fat — do not cut into the flesh. Salt the skin lightly, rub in, and refrigerate uncovered overnight. Dry skin is the key to crackling.

Roughly chop rosemary, fennel fronds, and garlic together on a cutting board until finely minced. Transfer to a bowl. Add ground fennel seeds, black pepper, and olive oil. Stir into a fragrant, moist paste. Taste — it should be aggressively herby and garlicky. This is the soul of the porchetta.

Spread the herb paste evenly over the entire scored flesh side, pressing it into the crosshatch cuts. Roll the belly tightly from one short end, keeping the tension even, ensuring the roll is tight with no air pockets. Tie with kitchen twine at 3 cm intervals — tight enough that the roll holds a drum-like firmness. Rub remaining salt all over the skin. Refrigerate uncovered for at least 2 hours, or overnight if possible.

Take porchetta from the fridge 1 hour before roasting. Preheat oven to 230 C (450 F). Place porchetta on a wire rack over a roasting pan, seam-side down. Roast at 230 C for 30 minutes — this blast of heat begins the crackling. Reduce heat to 160 C (325 F) and roast for 2 to 2.5 more hours until internal temperature reaches 70 C (158 F) at the center.

Rest the porchetta on a wire rack (not a cutting board) uncovered for 20–30 minutes. Resting lets the juices redistribute through the fat and flesh. Do not tent with foil — steam will soften the crackling you worked so hard for. Slice with a sharp, serrated bread knife using a sawing motion — a chef's knife will crack and shatter the crackling rather than cut through it cleanly.