Refried Black Beans

Rinse beans and place in a large pot with water, quartered onion, and epazote. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Cook uncovered for 2-2.5 hours, adding hot water as needed to keep the beans submerged. Do not salt until the last 30 minutes — early salt toughens the skins. The beans are done when they crush effortlessly between your fingers.

Heat lard in a wide, heavy skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the diced onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, golden, and sweet — about 8 minutes. The onion-flavored fat is the foundation of the refried beans' richness.

Add the cooked beans to the skillet in batches, mashing them into the onion-fat mixture with a potato masher or the back of a large wooden spoon. Add splashes of the reserved bean broth to keep the mixture moist. Work in batches — fry, mash, add more beans. The beans should sizzle and fry as they are mashed, not just be stirred in.

Season with salt to taste. Continue cooking over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for another 3-5 minutes. The beans will tighten and become glossy. They should be thick enough to hold a spoon upright but still spreadable — like soft peanut butter. Adjust with bean broth if too thick.