Satay Marinade and Peanut Sauce

Combine the turmeric, coriander, cumin, grated lemongrass, and palm sugar in a bowl. Pour in the coconut milk and whisk until the spices are evenly dispersed and the sugar is dissolved. The marinade should be a warm golden-yellow — the turmeric stains everything it touches, so use a non-reactive bowl and be careful of clothing. Taste: it should be fragrant with warm spice, mildly sweet, and richly coconutty. This is used to marinate 500 g of thinly sliced chicken, beef, or tofu for at least 1 hour (overnight in the refrigerator is ideal). Thread onto pre-soaked bamboo skewers before grilling.

Combine the ground peanuts, coconut milk, tamarind water, fish sauce, and chili flakes in a small saucepan. Stir to combine before placing over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, for 8–10 minutes until the sauce thickens noticeably and the fat begins to separate slightly at the edges of the pan — a ring of golden coconut oil appearing around the peanut sauce is a good sign. The sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon but still pourable. If it seizes up too thick, add a splash of water. Taste: sweet-salty-sour-spicy in balance, with a deep, toasty peanut character. The sauce should be served warm.

Thread the marinated meat onto soaked bamboo skewers, 3–4 thin slices per skewer, keeping the meat flat so it makes good contact with the grill. Grill over high heat (charcoal is traditional and dramatically superior) for 2–3 minutes per side. The exterior should char at the tips and edges — caramel-dark, slightly blackened — while the interior remains just cooked through. Baste with remaining marinade during the first turn. The turmeric in the marinade will darken quickly and smell of toasted spice. Watch carefully: thin satay slices overcook in seconds.