Schiacciata

Combine the flour, instant yeast, and fine salt in a large bowl, keeping the salt and yeast on opposite sides of the bowl initially. Pour in the warm water and olive oil. Mix with a dough scraper or your hand until no dry flour remains — the dough will be moderately sticky, softer than a bread dough but not as wet as focaccia. It should pull away from the sides of the bowl. Do not add more flour. Cover and rest for 15 minutes.

Perform three sets of stretch-and-fold over 60 minutes, one set every 20 minutes. For each set: wet your hand, grab the dough at one side of the bowl, stretch it firmly upward as far as it will reach without tearing, then fold it over the center. Rotate the bowl 90 degrees and repeat until you have completed four folds. After three sets, the dough should be noticeably smoother, more cohesive, and beginning to show bubbles beneath the surface. Cover and let bulk ferment at room temperature for another 30 minutes until puffy.

Pour a very generous amount of olive oil onto a half-sheet pan or rimmed baking tray — at least 4-5 tablespoons. Schiacciata is an olive oil bread and should practically float in it. Transfer the dough to the pan and use your fingertips to begin pressing and stretching it toward the edges. If the dough springs back firmly, cover and wait 10-15 minutes, then try again. The dough should eventually be pressed quite flat — roughly 1.5 cm thick throughout. Cover with plastic wrap and proof at room temperature for 30-45 minutes until noticeably puffy and slightly domed.

Using all ten fingers held flat, press the dough firmly and repeatedly across its entire surface, pushing all the way through to the pan. The dough should be pressed quite flat — flatter than focaccia. This is the 'schiacciata' — the crushing. Drizzle another generous pour of olive oil across the entire surface, letting it pool in the dimples. Scatter the flaky salt and rosemary leaves if using. The salt goes on now, not after baking.

Bake at 230 C (450 F) on the lowest rack for 15-20 minutes. Schiacciata bakes hotter and faster than focaccia because it is thinner. Watch carefully after 12 minutes. The edges should be deep brown and very crisp; the center should be golden. Remove from the pan immediately to a wire rack — do not let it cool in the pan or the bottom will steam and soften. Cool for 5 minutes before cutting. Schiacciata is best eaten within 1 hour of baking, while the contrast between the crisp exterior and the moist, oily crumb is still at its peak.