Shrimp and Grits

Bring the milk and stock to a simmer in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Season with salt. Whisk constantly as you pour the grits in a thin, steady stream — pouring all at once creates lumps that never dissolve. Reduce heat to its absolute lowest setting. Cook, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon every 3–4 minutes, for 30–40 minutes until the grits are completely tender. They should fall off the spoon in slow, lava-like ribbons, not plop in clumps.

While the grits are still very hot, stir in the cold butter in two additions, letting each melt fully before adding the next. Then fold in the grated cheddar until completely melted. Taste and adjust salt. Cover the pot and hold over the lowest flame or move to a warm burner — grits seize as they cool.

Heat a wide, heavy skillet (cast iron is ideal) over medium-high until smoking. Add the tasso or andouille in a single layer and cook undisturbed for 2–3 minutes until deeply browned and crisped on one side. Stir and cook another minute. The rendered fat in the pan is flavor — do not discard it.

Add the scallion whites and garlic directly to the tasso fat in the pan over medium heat. Cook 60–90 seconds, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant and the scallions are wilted. Do not let the garlic brown — it turns bitter in a pan this hot.

Season the shrimp with Creole seasoning and toss to coat. Add them to the pan in a single layer. Cook 90 seconds on the first side without moving — let the crust form. Flip each shrimp and cook 60 seconds more. Shrimp cook fast; have everything else ready before they go in the pan.

With the heat on medium-high, pour in the lemon juice. It will hiss and spit — use a long-handled spoon to scrape up all the fond from the bottom of the pan. Swirl the pan 15–20 seconds until the sauce tightens slightly and coats the shrimp. Scatter scallion greens over the top.