Sichuan Doubanjiang-Style Chili Bean Sauce

Pour the oil into a cold wok or heavy saucepan. Add the whole dried chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, star anise, and cassia to the cold oil. Heat together over medium-low heat slowly — starting cold allows the oil to extract maximum flavour without burning the spices. After 8 to 10 minutes, when small bubbles form around the chilies and the oil is deeply fragrant and tinged orange-red, remove the whole spices with a slotted spoon and discard them. The oil now carries their essence.

With the spiced oil still over medium-low heat, add the minced garlic and ginger. Fry slowly, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes until the garlic is soft and just beginning to turn golden at the edges. The key is slow frying — garlic that browns too fast will taste sharp and harsh rather than sweet and complex. The oil will smell intoxicatingly fragrant. Do not let the garlic turn dark.

Add the doubanjiang to the aromatic oil and increase the heat to medium. The paste will immediately begin to fry in the oil and sputter. Stir constantly, pressing the paste against the wok, for 10 to 12 minutes. This long, slow frying is the critical step: it drives off the raw ferment smell, develops the colour from bright red to deep crimson-maroon, and concentrates the flavour. Add the Shaoxing wine halfway through — it will sizzle violently and release steam, which is correct. Add the dark soy in the final minute. The sauce is done when the oil separates and pools around the paste in a vivid red pool.