Tabouli

Place the fine bulgur in a small bowl. Pour half the lemon juice (40 ml) directly over it — soaking in lemon juice rather than water means the bulgur absorbs acidity as it hydrates, so it is never bland or watery. Add just enough cold water to barely cover the grain (about 50 ml). Stir once and leave to soak for 20 minutes. After soaking, tip the bulgur into the center of a clean kitchen towel or several layers of cheesecloth and wring firmly — extracting as much liquid as possible. The bulgur must be as dry as you can make it, or it will water down the salad.

Wash and thoroughly dry the parsley and mint — wet herbs will release water into the salad. Use a sharp chef's knife only — never a food processor, which bruises the leaves and turns them dark and bitter within minutes. Gather the parsley into a tight bundle and chop fine with a rocking motion, then rotate 90 degrees and chop again. The goal is a fine, green confetti — not a paste, not rough chunks. Chop the mint separately (it is more delicate) and fold it in. The volume of herb should be approximately 4-5 times the volume of everything else; if you feel you have too much parsley, you are probably correct.

Dice the tomatoes into small cubes, no larger than 5 mm. Place the diced tomatoes in a fine-mesh sieve or colander and let them drain for 10 minutes — tomatoes release a lot of water, and undrained tomatoes will pool at the bottom of the salad within minutes of serving. Slice the scallions into thin rounds. The scallion provides the onion note in tabouli — raw white onion is traditional in some versions, but scallions are milder and more commonly used in modern Lebanese kitchens.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the chopped herbs, squeezed-dry bulgur, drained tomatoes, and scallions. Drizzle the remaining lemon juice and olive oil over everything. Add the allspice, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Toss gently but thoroughly using two large spoons or clean hands, lifting from the bottom and turning — you are not trying to crush anything, just coat every element in the dressing. The salad will compress slightly as it is tossed. Taste: tabouli should be aggressively, almost bracingly lemony. If it seems too mild, add more lemon juice.

Taste the dressed tabouli and adjust. The correct seasoning for tabouli is different from most dishes: the lemon must be the loudest note — if you are hesitant, add more. The olive oil should be present but should not make the salad heavy. The allspice and cinnamon are subtle warmth, not detectable as distinct spices. Salt should make everything pop without being perceptible on its own. Let the tabouli rest at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving — this brief rest allows the salt to draw a small amount of moisture from the herbs, which mingles with the dressing and creates the finished sauce.