Zhug

In a mortar, pound the cardamom seeds, cumin seeds, and black peppercorns to a fine, even powder. The cardamom seeds are the most important: they must be fully crushed to release the eucalyptus-floral oils that are zhug's signature. If using a spice grinder, run it for 30 seconds and check for any whole seeds remaining. The spice powder should be fine enough to not feel gritty on the tongue.

Add the garlic and salt to the mortar with the ground spices and pound to a smooth paste. Add the jalapeño pieces in two batches, pounding each batch into the garlic base before adding more. Finally, add the coriander and parsley stems first (they are tougher), pound to a rough paste, then add the leaves. Work with a circular grinding motion against the mortar wall between pounding strokes. The paste will be wet and emerald green.

If you haven't yet, add the remaining herb leaves to the paste and work in. Pour the olive oil over the paste and fold it in with a spoon or a few more turns of the pestle. The oil should integrate but not fully emulsify — zhug is not a smooth sauce. Taste and adjust salt and heat. Pack into a clean jar, smoothing the surface, and press a thin layer of olive oil over the top to seal. Refrigerate. Zhug keeps for 1 to 2 weeks and the flavor deepens after 24 hours.