Wine-Braised Beef Short Ribs

Pat each short rib completely dry with paper towels — any surface moisture will steam rather than sear. Season aggressively on all six sides with kosher salt and coarse black pepper, pressing the seasoning into the meat. Rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, or salt the day before and refrigerate uncovered overnight for deeper seasoning and a drier surface (which sears better). Preheat the oven to 160 C (325 F).

Heat a large Dutch oven or heavy braiser over high heat. Add the oil and heat until smoking. Working in batches of two or three ribs at a time — never crowd the pan — sear each rib on all four meaty sides and the two bone-end faces. Allow each side 3 to 4 minutes undisturbed contact with the pan before turning. Total searing time per batch: 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer the seared ribs to a plate. Do not clean the pot — the fond is critical.

In the same pot with all the accumulated fond, reduce heat to medium. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally and scraping the brown bits from the bottom, until the vegetables are deeply softened and beginning to brown. Add the garlic and cook 1 more minute. Push everything to the sides and add the tomato paste to the center. Cook the paste for 2 to 3 minutes until it darkens from red to brick-brown (pinçage). Stir into the vegetables.

Pour in the entire bottle of red wine. Bring to a boil, scraping every dark bit from the pot bottom. Let the wine reduce by half over medium-high heat — about 15 minutes — until the raw alcohol smell has burned off and the liquid smells of dark fruit and structure rather than vinegar. Add the beef stock and the bouquet garni.

Nestle the seared short ribs into the wine base, bone-side down. They should be at least two-thirds submerged — add more stock or water if not. Add the bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer on the stovetop, then cover with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to the preheated oven at 160 C (325 F). Braise for 3 to 3.5 hours, turning the ribs once halfway through. They are done when the meat has fully separated from the bone and a skewer or cake tester passes through with zero resistance.

Transfer the ribs to a warm plate, tented loosely with foil. Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a wide saucepan, pressing the spent vegetables to extract every drop. Bring to a vigorous simmer and reduce until the sauce coats a spoon cleanly and has a lacquered appearance — typically reducing by half to two-thirds over 15 to 20 minutes. Adjust salt. Spoon the glossy sauce over the ribs and serve immediately, or rest the ribs in the strained sauce in the refrigerator overnight (they reheat better the next day).