Brown Chicken Stock (Fond Brun de Volaille)

Preheat the oven to 230 C (450 F). Toss the chicken bones and wings in a thin coat of neutral oil and spread across two sheet trays — do not crowd. Roast for 35–45 minutes, turning once at the halfway mark, until the bones and cartilage are a deep mahogany brown with charred tips on the wing joints. The fat that renders out will brown the bottom of the tray; that fond is gold.

On the same or a fresh sheet tray, spread the mirepoix in a single layer and roast at 230 C for 20 minutes until the edges are caramelized and the onion rings separate and blacken at the tips. In the last 5 minutes, push the vegetables aside and add the tomato paste directly to the tray, spreading it thin — let it caramelize until brick-red and fragrant (pinçage).

Add bones and mirepoix to a large stockpot. Pour a cup of cold water onto each roasting tray and scrape all the fond with a wooden spoon until every dark bit has dissolved into the liquid. Pour this fond liquid into the stockpot. Cover everything with the remaining cold water — bones should be submerged by 2 inches.

Bring the pot to a boil over high heat, watching closely. The moment foam and fat begin to rise, reduce to the lowest possible simmer — a lazy bubble every second or two. Add the bouquet garni. Simmer uncovered for 4 hours, skimming the grey-brown foam and fat from the surface every 30 minutes. Never stir; disturbing the pot clouds the stock.

Ladle the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot — do not pour or you will cloud it. Discard solids. Cool the stock in an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until below 10 C. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, lift and discard the solid disc of fat from the surface. The stock beneath will have set to a dark amber jelly — this is correct and means it is rich in gelatin.