Cioppino

Heat the olive oil in a very large, wide pot (at least 8 litres — cioppino is generous) over medium heat. Add the diced onion and fennel and cook, stirring regularly, for 10–12 minutes until both are completely soft, translucent, and slightly golden at the edges. The fennel will lose its licorice sharpness and become sweet and yielding. Add the crushed red pepper and cook 1 minute more. The base should smell sweet, savory, and faintly of anise.

Add the minced garlic and dried oregano to the softened vegetables and cook for 2 minutes, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant but not browned. Pour in the white wine — it will hiss and steam dramatically. Scrape up any caramelized fond from the base of the pot. Raise the heat to high and cook the wine vigorously for 4–5 minutes until it has reduced by roughly half and the raw alcohol smell has dissipated, leaving a clean, fruity, slightly acidic aroma.

Add the hand-crushed tomatoes with their juices, the fish stock, bay leaves, and salt. Stir everything together. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a lively simmer (small, frequent bubbles). Cook uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down fully and the broth has deepened in flavor and color. The broth will reduce and concentrate. Taste and adjust salt — this is also your last opportunity to balance the broth before the seafood goes in.

Add the crab sections to the broth first and cover. Cook for 5 minutes. Add the clams, cover, and cook 4 minutes more. When the clams begin to open, add the mussels and shrimp. Cover and cook 3 minutes. Add the fish chunks last — they need only 3 minutes. Gently submerge the fish in the broth, being careful not to break the pieces. When the fish is just opaque throughout and flakes gently at the edge, remove from heat. Discard any clams or mussels that have not opened.

Tear the fresh basil over the surface of the finished cioppino and stir once, very gently, to distribute without breaking up the seafood. Toast the sourdough slices while the cioppino finishes. Ladle into very large, warmed bowls — each bowl should hold a piece of crab, several clams and mussels, shrimp, and a piece of fish. Pour extra broth over generously. The toast goes alongside the bowl, not in it, for dragging through the broth between bites.