Cucumber Raita

Grate cucumber on the large holes of a box grater. Sprinkle with half the salt and toss. Place in a colander or wrap in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible — really compress it. Let drain for 10 minutes, then squeeze again. A single cucumber holds a surprising amount of water; releasing it prevents a watery raita.

Toast cumin seeds in a small dry skillet over medium heat for 60-90 seconds, shaking constantly, until they darken and begin to pop. Immediately grind coarsely in a mortar or between two spoons. The heat transforms the raw, slightly harsh flavor of cumin into a warm, nutty, aromatic note.

In a bowl, combine yogurt, drained cucumber, bloomed cumin, mint, coriander, ground coriander, and remaining salt. Fold gently — don't overstir into a smooth paste. The texture should be spoonable with visible herb flecks and cucumber strands. Taste and adjust salt. Refrigerate for 15 minutes before serving — the rest allows the flavors to meld.