Dukkah

Spread the hazelnuts in a single layer in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toast, shaking the pan every 30 seconds, for 5 to 7 minutes until the skins are blistered and cracking and the nuts beneath are a deep golden brown. If using skin-on hazelnuts, tip into a clean kitchen towel, wrap and rub vigorously to remove most of the skin. Some skin remaining is fine and adds bitterness. Spread on a plate to cool completely before grinding.

Toast the sesame seeds, coriander, cumin, and peppercorns separately — each has a different size and density, so they hit perfect doneness at different moments. Sesame seeds first: 2 to 3 minutes in a dry pan, shaking constantly, until golden and jumping. Then coriander and cumin together: 2 to 3 minutes until they smell warm and the coriander seeds just begin to colour. Peppercorns last: 1 minute until fragrant. Cool each completely before combining.

Combine all the cooled toasted ingredients in a mortar with the flaky salt and dried thyme. Pound with a circular grinding motion — not a smooth blending action, but an intermittent crush. You want a coarse, uneven, rubble-like texture: some hazelnut pieces remain pea-sized, some sesame is whole, some spice is powdered. The contrast between fine spice dust and whole sesame and nut chunks is what makes dukkah. Alternatively, pulse 3 to 5 times in a food processor — do not run it continuously or you will produce hazelnut butter.

Taste the dukkah directly, then taste it again dipped in a little good olive oil. The oil amplifies all the flavours and reveals the balance: you should get the warmth of coriander and cumin up front, a gentle bitterness from the hazelnut skins, and a lingering sesame nuttiness. Add more salt if it tastes muted; the flaky salt also adds textural pops that fine salt cannot replicate. Store in an airtight jar at room temperature for up to 3 weeks, or refrigerate for up to 2 months.