Lamb Stock

Preheat oven to 230°C (450°F). Place lamb bones in a single layer in a large roasting pan — do not crowd them. Drizzle with neutral oil. Roast for 30–40 minutes, turning once at 20 minutes, until the bones are deeply mahogany-brown on all exposed surfaces and the fat has rendered and is sizzling. The darker the roast, the deeper and more complex the stock will be — but stop before the bones go black, which introduces bitterness. In the last 10 minutes, push bones to the sides and add tomato paste to the center of the pan to caramelize it (pinçage).

Remove the roasting pan from the oven. Pour the red wine into the hot pan — it will sizzle and steam violently. Scrape all the dark fond from the pan bottom with a wooden spoon. Transfer the bones, deglaze, and all roasting juices to a large stockpot. Add onions, carrots, celery, and garlic to the same roasting pan, return to the oven for 15 minutes until the vegetables take on color, then transfer those too.

Add roasted vegetables, herb bundle, peppercorns, and cold water to the pot with the bones. Bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately reduce to the barest possible simmer — a single lazy bubble every 3–5 seconds. Skim the grey-brown foam and fat that rises in the first 30 minutes with a ladle. Do not stir. Do not let it boil hard at any point. Simmer uncovered for 4 hours. Good stock is made at the lowest possible temperature; rapid boiling produces a cloudy, greasy, thin result.

Set a fine-mesh sieve or chinois over a large container. Ladle the stock through carefully — do not pour or press. Allow to drain under gravity for 5 minutes. Discard the spent bones and vegetables. Cool the stock rapidly: set the container in an ice bath and stir until the temperature drops below 4°C / 40°F, then refrigerate overnight.

Lift the solidified fat cap cleanly from the surface of the chilled stock — it comes away in one piece, leaving a clean stock beneath. Melt the stock gently over medium-low heat. Taste and season lightly with salt if using immediately, or keep unsalted for versatility. Use as a braising liquid for lamb shanks and tagines, as a base for gravies and sauces, reduced to a jus, or concentrated to a glaze. Refrigerate for 5 days or freeze in 500ml portions for 6 months.