Mantu

Combine flour and salt, make a well, and pour in the warm water gradually, mixing with a fork until a shaggy dough forms. Turn onto a work surface and knead for 8-10 minutes until smooth, elastic, and not sticky. Mantu dough should be slightly stiffer than pasta dough — it needs to hold its pleats under the pressure of steaming. Form into a ball, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and rest for at least 45 minutes.

In a wide skillet, cook the diced onion in a small amount of oil over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 15-20 minutes until deeply caramelized and sweet — golden-brown, not pale. Add the ground beef, breaking it into fine crumbles, and cook until no pink remains. Add the spices and salt, stir for 2 minutes, then taste. The filling should be highly seasoned, as the dumpling dough dilutes the flavor. Spread on a plate to cool completely before filling.

Divide the rested dough into manageable portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion as thin as possible — aim for 2mm, almost translucent. Cut into squares of 8-10cm. Mantu wrappers are slightly thicker than Chinese dumpling wrappers to withstand steaming, but thin enough to be delicate. Keep cut wrappers under a damp cloth.

Place a generous teaspoon of cooled filling in the center of each square — do not overfill or the pleats will split. The traditional mantu fold: bring all four corners up to meet at the top, then pinch the four seams shut, creating a 'four-petal' shape with a gathered top. Press the seams firmly so no steam can escape during cooking. Place formed mantu on a lightly oiled surface.

Stir together the yogurt, minced garlic, and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan. Warm very gently over the lowest possible heat, stirring constantly — yogurt must never boil or it will curdle. The goal is warmed through, not hot: 40-45 C (104-113 F). Taste and adjust salt. The sauce should be pourable and smooth.

Oil the steamer basket generously to prevent sticking. Place mantu with space between each — they expand as they steam. Steam over vigorously boiling water for 20-22 minutes until the wrappers are translucent and cooked through, not gummy. To serve: spread warmed garlic yogurt on the plate, arrange the steamed mantu on top, and finish with a drizzle of olive oil, a shower of dried mint, and optionally a spoonful of tomato-based chili oil. The mantu arrive at the table glistening.