Masala Chai

Crack the cardamom pods open and tip in their black seeds along with the husks. Add the peppercorns, cloves, and a snapped piece of cinnamon bark, and pound everything coarsely in a mortar — you want the spices bruised and broken open, not powdered. Smash the peeled ginger separately to a fibrous pulp. Crushing fresh releases volatile oils that a pre-ground masala has long since lost, and the coarse texture steeps cleanly without clouding the chai.

Tip the crushed masala into the water in a small saucepan and bring it to a rolling boil. Let it bubble hard for 2 to 3 minutes — this is a true decoction, drawing the heat and aroma out of the spices into the water before any milk goes in. The water will tint pale gold and the steam will turn unmistakably peppery and gingery.

Stir the tea leaves into the boiling spice water and keep it at a brisk boil for 1 to 2 minutes. CTC leaf brews fast and dark; you want a strong, almost inky liquor because the milk to come will dilute and pale it considerably. The colour should deepen to a rich mahogany.

Pour in the milk and add the sugar, then bring the whole pot back to a boil. Watch it closely — as it climbs the pan and threatens to foam over, pull it briefly off the heat to settle it, then return it. Repeat this rise-and-settle two or three times over 2 to 3 minutes; each boil-up thickens the chai and melds the tea, spice, and milk into one. Pour from a height through a fine strainer into cups to leave the leaves and spices behind and build a little froth on top.