Maza

Spread the hulled barley grains in a dry, heavy pan over medium heat and toast, shaking and stirring constantly, for 8 to 12 minutes. The grains darken from pale straw to a warm tan and throw off a popcorn-like, nutty aroma — this roasting (the ancient ?lphita process) is what gives maza its signature toasted flavor and was traditionally how the grain was prepared before milling. Let cool completely before grinding.

Grind the cooled roasted barley to a coarse meal in a mortar, hand mill, or pulse-grinder — aim for a texture between fine flour and cornmeal, with some grit left in. Ancient maza was deliberately coarse, not silky; that rustic body is part of its character. Sift out only the largest unbroken hulls.

Dissolve the salt (and honey, if using) in the warm water. Tip the barley meal into a bowl, add the olive oil and sesame, then pour in the liquid and work it together with your hands. Barley has almost no gluten, so this will never become a smooth elastic dough — instead knead just until it forms a cohesive, dense, slightly tacky mass that holds a shape. Press it together for a minute or two; over-working only dries it out. Let it rest 10 minutes so the meal fully hydrates.

Pat the dough into a flat round about 1.5 cm thick (or several small cakes) and bake on a hot stone or in a dry heavy skillet over medium heat, 6 to 9 minutes per side, until the surface is firm and freckled with golden-brown spots. Without leavening it stays dense and flat — a hearty griddle-cake rather than a fluffy loaf. Eat warm with olive oil and honey, or let it cool and pack it for the road as the ancients did.