Mushroom Barley Risotto

Heat 30 ml of the oil in a wide, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer (in two batches if crowded) and leave undisturbed 4 minutes. Stir, then cook 4–6 minutes more until the released water has evaporated and the mushrooms are deeply browned. Add the thyme, soy sauce, and a pinch of pepper, toss 30 seconds, then transfer to a bowl. Leave the pot unwashed.

Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 15 ml oil to the same pot. Cook the shallots 3–4 minutes until soft, add the garlic for 30 seconds, then add the barley. Stir 2–3 minutes so the grains toast and pick up the mushroom fond.

Add the wine and stir until almost fully absorbed, about 2 minutes. Add the hot stock one ladle (about 180 ml) at a time, stirring often and adding more when the pot looks nearly dry. Keep at a lively simmer. Barley takes 35–40 minutes — longer than rice — and won't get quite as creamy, so stir well to release its starch. Season with salt halfway through.

Off the heat, add the cold butter and grated cheese and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon for 30 seconds until glossy. Fold in two-thirds of the mushrooms. Rest 1 minute, loosen with a little stock if needed, then serve topped with the remaining mushrooms, parsley, and black pepper.