Nasi Goreng Paste

Wrap the terasi in a small square of aluminium foil and press it flat. Toast directly over a gas flame or in a dry pan for 30–45 seconds per side until it smells cooked and deeply savoury — the raw, ammonia-like sharpness of the raw paste should give way to a roasted, fermented complexity. Do not skip this step: raw terasi has an aggressive, harsh smell that cooking tames into something extraordinary. The foil prevents the paste from sticking and the flame from charring it unevenly.

Drain the soaked dried chilies — they should be soft and pliable. Combine shallots, garlic, soaked dried chilies, fresh bird's eye chilies (if using), and toasted terasi in a large mortar. Pound methodically starting with the hardest items (shallots, garlic) before adding the chilies and terasi. Work in a circular pounding motion, turning the pestle and occasionally scraping down the sides. The goal is a smooth, uniformly coloured, deep brick-red paste with no visible chunks. A blender works but produces a slightly more watery paste — add a tablespoon less water.

Heat the oil in a wok or heavy frying pan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the spice paste all at once — it will spit and hiss loudly. Stand back. Fry, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 6–8 minutes. The paste will progress through three visible stages: first it steams and sputters (water evaporating); then it fries and darkens from bright red to a deeper brick-brown; finally the oil separates around the paste (minyak pecah) and the paste smells sweet, toasted, and complex rather than raw. This cooked paste base is the foundation of all nasi goreng flavour.

Add kecap manis and a pinch of salt to the cooked paste and stir over low heat for 1 minute until incorporated. The kecap manis adds sweetness and a deeper colour — the paste will darken further to a glossy, very dark brown. Taste: it should be savoury and complex with a distinct fermented depth. It will be intensely flavoured — this is a concentrated paste meant to season 2 cups (400 g cooked) of rice per this recipe amount. Store cooled paste in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. To use: add 2 tablespoons of oil to a hot wok, add paste and stir-fry 30 seconds, then add day-old rice and toss.