New York Bagels

Combine flour, salt, yeast, and malt syrup. Add cold water (cold water slows fermentation and improves texture). Mix until a very stiff, dry-looking dough forms — bagel dough is noticeably stiffer than any other bread dough, with only 55% hydration. Knead vigorously for 12–15 minutes by hand (or 10 minutes on medium in a stand mixer) until the dough is satiny smooth and extremely tight. Divide into 8 portions (about 110 g each).

Shape each portion into a tight ball, then use the thumb-through method: press both thumbs through the center of the ball and stretch the ring to 8–9 cm diameter with a 3 cm hole (the hole shrinks during proofing and baking). Alternatively, roll each ball into a 25 cm rope and join the ends with a 3 cm overlap, pressing firmly and rolling the seam against the work surface to seal. Place on parchment-lined trays dusted with cornmeal or semolina. Refrigerate uncovered overnight (12–16 hours).

Remove bagels from refrigerator. Float test: drop one bagel in cold water — it should float within 10 seconds. If it sinks, let the batch proof at room temperature for 30 more minutes. Bring a wide pot of water to a rolling boil. Add barley malt syrup. Boil bagels 2–3 at a time for 60 seconds per side (softer) or 90 seconds per side (chewier, more authentic). Remove with a spider or slotted spoon, drain, then immediately press the wet top into seeds or seasoning.

Bake on a parchment-lined tray (or preheated baking stone) at 230 C (450 F) for 18–22 minutes until deeply golden-brown with no pale patches. Rotate the tray at 10 minutes. The bagels will darken significantly in the final 3 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before cutting — the crumb is still setting.