Rendang

Soak the dried chillies in boiling water for fifteen minutes, then blend them with the shallot, garlic, galangal, ginger and turmeric to a smooth paste.

Toast the coconut in a dry pan until deep brown and pound it to an oily paste — this is kerisik, and it brings the nutty depth.

Fry the paste in a wide pot for five minutes, add the meat, coconut milk, bruised lemongrass and lime leaves, and bring it to the boil.

Simmer uncovered for two and a half hours, stirring every twenty minutes. The sauce gradually thickens and darkens.

Stir in the kerisik and carry on over medium heat for another hour, stirring more and more often. The milk splits, the oil separates and the meat begins to fry.

It is done when the meat is dark brown and nearly dry and the oil runs clear. Season and let it rest.