Scallion Pancakes (Cong You Bing)

Place the flour in a bowl and pour in the boiling water all at once. Immediately stir with a chopstick or wooden spoon in circular motions until the water is absorbed and the mixture looks like a shaggy, steaming mass. The boiling water partially cooks the starch — this gelatinisation is what makes the dough pliable and the pancake chewy rather than biscuity. Once cool enough to handle (about 2 minutes), knead briefly in the bowl until a smooth dough forms — about 3 minutes. It should feel soft and slightly tacky.

Divide the rested dough into 4 equal pieces. On a lightly oiled surface (not floured), roll each piece into a thin rectangle about 3 mm thick. Brush generously with sesame oil to within 5 mm of the edges. Scatter salt and sliced scallion evenly across the surface, pressing lightly so they adhere. Now roll the rectangle into a tight log from the long edge, like a Swiss roll. Then coil the log into a tight snail shape and press it flat with your palm. Re-roll the coiled disc to about 5 mm thick. This double-rolling is the technique that creates the layered structure.

Heat a heavy skillet or cast iron pan over medium heat. Add enough neutral oil to coat the bottom with a 2 mm layer. When the oil shimmers, add one pancake. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side without moving it — the underside should be golden and crisping. Flip and press lightly with a spatula to encourage even contact with the pan. Cook the second side for 2 minutes. The pancake is done when both sides are deep golden-brown with dark, crispy edges and you can hear it crackling and hissing in the oil.