Scottish Kedgeree

Place the haddock skin-side down in a wide pan. Pour over the milk — it should just cover the fish. Bring to the barest simmer over medium-low heat. As soon as the milk begins to shiver and small bubbles appear around the edges (not a full boil), turn off the heat, cover the pan, and let the fish poach in the residual heat for 8–10 minutes. Lift the fish out and reserve the poaching milk. When cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin, then flake the flesh into large chunks, checking for pin bones.

Bring a pot of water to a full boil. Lower the eggs in gently and cook for exactly 8 minutes for yolks that are set but still have a faintly creamy center — a true soft-set rather than chalky hard-boiled. Transfer immediately to a bowl of ice water for 2 minutes to stop the cooking and make them easier to peel. Peel and cut into quarters lengthwise.

In a large, wide saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the diced onion with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, for 8–10 minutes until soft, translucent, and beginning to turn pale gold at the edges. Add the curry powder and stir for 60–90 seconds until the spices bloom and turn fragrant and dark. Add the rinsed rice and stir to coat every grain in the spiced butter — about 1 minute. Measure 450 ml of the reserved haddock poaching milk (top up with water if needed) and pour it over the rice. Season lightly with salt, remembering the fish and milk are already salty. Bring to a boil, reduce to the lowest simmer, cover tightly, and cook 12 minutes. Remove from heat and steam, lid on, for 5 more minutes.

If using cream, pour it over the rice and fold gently with a wide spatula. Add the flaked haddock in large pieces and fold just twice or three times — you want chunks, not paste. Add half the parsley. Fold once more. Taste and adjust salt and lemon juice — the dish wants brightness. Arrange the egg quarters across the top, scatter the remaining parsley, and bring the pan to the table with lemon halves alongside. Kedgeree is traditionally served at breakfast or brunch, warm but not screaming hot.