Swordfish alla Ghiotta

Pat the swordfish steaks very dry and season both sides generously with salt and pepper. Heat half the olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet over high heat until just smoking. Sear the swordfish for 2–3 minutes per side until a golden-brown crust forms on both faces. The fish will not be cooked through — you are building the crust and the fond, not finishing the fish. Remove to a plate. The fish will finish in the sauce.

In the same skillet, reduce to medium heat and add the remaining oil. Add the onion and celery. Cook, stirring, for 6–8 minutes until completely soft and the onion is translucent and just beginning to turn golden. Add the pine nuts and cook 2 minutes until lightly toasted — they will pick up golden color and smell of toasted wood and fat. Add the raisins and stir for 30 seconds until they plump slightly.

Add the cherry tomatoes, olives, and rinsed capers to the pan. Stir and cook for 3 minutes until the tomatoes begin to break down and release their juice. In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar in the wine vinegar, then pour over the pan. Stir to combine. The sauce will immediately smell sharp and bright from the vinegar. Simmer for 4–5 minutes until the sauce has thickened slightly and the sharp edge of the raw vinegar has mellowed into something sweet-sour and rounded.

Nestle the seared swordfish steaks into the sauce, spooning some sauce over the top of each one. Cover the pan and braise over low heat for 6–8 minutes, depending on thickness. The sauce will steam the fish gently from above while the residual heat from below finishes the interior. Uncover and check: the fish should be just barely opaque throughout, still slightly yielding at the very center. Do not overcook — swordfish dries out fast. Tear fresh mint leaves over the top and serve from the pan.